JACKSON TWP — From the first bite of aButterBurger, I was a believer.
Local, online foodies have been anticipating the arrival of the new Culver's at 4896 Everhard Road NWfor months.
A large, blue-and-white roadside sign at therestaurantpromotes the sandwich. Ryan Lehar, owner-operator of the new local eatery, had touted the ButterBurger during a recent interview.
I had high expectations, especially after my recent article about Stark County's best burgers.
The ButterBurger wasmightydelicious, and lived up to the hype.
The fresh-tasting beef obviously did not come off of an assembly line. American cheese slices were nicely melted. Crispiness and charring on the edges of the pattiesdeepened the flavor.
Customers individually select the condiments, toppings and type of cheese.
The bun was lightly buttered and toasted, which is how the ButterBurger originally got its name. Vegetables tasted fresh; and the double burger ($5.19)was neither gargantuan nor meager. (One-patty ButterBurgers with cheese are $3.29).
Trying a ButterBurger was a logicalstartat Culver's, which opened June 21. Joining me for the review was Alexander Thompson, a summer intern at The Canton Repository.
Alexander ordered the North Atlantic cod filet sandwich ($5.49),and I sampled a bite.
Our opinions diverged— the intern likely wouldn't order itagain, while I thought the fish sandwichclearly stood out among thoseI've eaten at chain restaurants.
Frozen cod is used, but it's thawed and hand-breaded daily, Lehar said during a discussion after our covert visit.
I tasted the difference; breading was not overly thick, while the fish was impressively flaky, and the pleasant taste was not obscuredby an abundance of tartar sauce. My assessment is based on a single bite, but it was satisfyingenough to initially make me question whether the fishwas indeed frozen.
Alexander's take: "For frozen fish, not bad. I usually avoid fish in Ohio, but this passed. The breading was well done..."
The deal-breaker for the young journalist was the tartar sauce to fish ratio.
"I am widely recognized by the competent authorities as a tartar sauce zealot, a Tartarphile even,"Alexander said. "I was unimpressed. Needed way, way more tartar sauce. Through the lettuce, I could barely taste it. Somewhere far out on the windswept steppes of Russia, the Tartar people weep tonight."
His verdict: "If it’s a Friday in Lent and Fisher’s is out of fish sticks, perhapsI’ll swing by, but barring that, I probably won’t repeat it."
Cheese curds were a tasty side for the burger or fish, which weboth preferred over thefries covered with chili and cheese.
The curds' outside was crispy. Inside was a thickly textured and stretchy blend of white and yellow Wisconsin cheddar. Many Culver's fans gush over the curds.
A definite highlight of the visit wasCulver's custard, made fresh throughout the day in batches.
My peanut butter milkshake ($3.89) had an idealconsistency— wonderfully creamy and thick enough to eat with a spoon yet liquidy enough to sip through a straw.
More peanut butter would have made the shake even better while helping to balancetherichness of the custard.
After the meal and dessert, Lehar, who first worked for Culver's as a teenager in Wisconsin, treated me to a heaping spoonful of vanilla fresh out of the custard machine. Pure bliss. Next time, I'll likely keep it simple and order vanilla or chocolate custardin a dish or cone.
Alexanderordered a concrete mixer — vanilla or chocolate custard with a choice of two "mix-ins" ($4.39 for regular size).
Options include hot fudge, mint, marshmallow creme, espresso, cookie dough, granola clusters, candy sprinkles, sugar cookies and Eli's cheesecake pieces. Cashews, pecans, strawberries, wild cherries, blackberries, bananas and peaches are other possibilities.
Candy options include Butterfinger, Snickers, Heath bar and M&M's.
Alexander decided on raspberry and salted caramel.
"This I enjoyed," the Wooster native and student at Tufts University in Massachusetts wrote to me. "... This was not a milkshake. It was different in terms of texture and somehow seemed fresher. I definitely recommend giving it a try. I also picked a good combo..."
Alexander also rightly complimented the customer service displayed during a bustling early afternoon opening week.
"This is where the restaurant really tries to differentiate itself from regular fast-food," he said. "There were a lot of staff out. They deliver your meal to you, which I liked because I’m glad it takes a little longer to make the food..."
The coworker said theattentiveness "gives the place a human aspect rather than just being a slick, sterile (chain restaurant)."
"... Also, when you go through the drive-thru, someone comes and hands it to you in your car, which is interesting. I saw servers interacting with customers..."
For burger and custard lovers, I enthusiastically recommendCulver's.
In a highly competitive market, both items are premium. And if you're not in the mood for a burger, beef pot roast,pork loin, a Harvest veggie burger, grilled Reuben melt, and chicken cashew salad orcranberry bacon bleu salad offer capable options.
Reach Ed at 330-580-8315 and ebalint@gannett.com
On Twitter @ebalintREP
